A self charging circuit using a flyback transformer and just a few components.
If the circuit is properly understood it can then be implemented in kacher devices or similar.
Driver circuit must stay simple, other circuits and components will work too but attention to L3, you might need more or less turns from 1-5 turns, depending on the transformer used, capacitor and the voltage comming from the AV plug.
After initial tests and proper adjustments you should also be able to remove batteries and replace with capacitors.Don't go directly to try running without batteries, first you need to see battery voltage increased.
Note that initially It might look that battery voltage goes down, please be patient...
I am currently testing kacher circuit in tesla coil style.
Would this circuit you posted work in tesla coil style or it has to be a flyback transformer?
Could you post approximate values of C1 and C2 cap you used?
this would work fine in a tesla coil style, that is actually the next step after the one with flyback.
I can tell you what I used for C1=3000pf/30000volts ; C2=150pf/3000volts and a variable capacitor in parallel with C2.
L3 should be from a thicker wire, in your case even one turn should be enough, wound on top of your primary with some distance from the primary windings. One turn only has many advantages that Tesla found and used in his coils.
Please try and don't tell me is not working as I have few friends who replicated it with no problems and minimum tuning.
Hi Romero Thanks
I will tried tomorrow on my big tesla coil ( 160mm diameter; 900mm height)
The kacher setup works great with this big tesla coil.
just be careful with diodes used for the av plug, I burned so many with my tesla style coil.
just received my new Oscope today and decided to make a glass coil using a 4 foot neon tube cut to about 12in.
just one question, are L1 and L2 wound in the same direction ?
@Hitman all coils in the primary same direction but pay attention to the wires comming to them.
This is a diagram to prove the ideea and easy for all to be replicated.
I am working on a diferent one but as I still have problems with it I am not going to post it until I have it working good. This one I posted I tested in different variants, and all worked fine.
Make sure you start with batteries not fully charged...
Check the voltage for each battery before starting, check the total voltage for both in series then start. Leave it running for about 10 minutes, disconect and wait few minutes then check the voltage again.You can reconect if until you got them fully charged.One of the batteries will always be a little bit less charge than the other. It can be done with one battery too but this is the easy way.
Don't leave it running too long as you might overcharge batteries. I will show you later how to connect a load and maintain the battery in normal condition.
I used 1.5 volt batteries, 6 volts and 12 volts, all worked fine.
You can have more batteries in series as you are running just from only one.
romero, i tested your schematic and it works, charged battery from 10.3 to 12.6 in 15 minutes.
i am very happy, this is my first working ou, i need to go now but i will test more later.
Any dimensions will work aslong you will get it to charge C1 and have the spark with minimum input power.
It does not need to be glass tube yet, all you need is to see it working without spending time or money on aditional parts.
If you have a kacher coil already please use it, check that what I said is working then go further.
With the glass tube DO NOT insulate the tube, the best is to have no tube at all but because glass works much better than other materials we will have the windings direct on the glass tube.
You don't need a capacitor made from copper strip, just a ordinary capacitor will do.
L3 you can have it exactly like in Kapanadze green box, the big copper tube, that is L3.
You can have 5-6 turns and check where it works better while experimenting.
You will selfcharge the batteries even without any capacitor to L3 but if you get L3 tuned then the charge is superfast and then think on how to replace the batteries with capacitors.
In my opinion, in the green box generator the big copper tube is second primary.
This schematic I showed is not the best but it works and I will like to have it confirmed from more people. I have 3 people who confirmed it working, maybe some of you can develop it even further and maybe different approach than me.
Here are few of the devices I am playing with using that schematic posted few days back and some interesting scope shots.
Any flyback or high voltage coil will work.
The Flyback with internal diode we can use too, without AV Plug, conected in normal fashion and negative to the ground.
Don't ask me about number of turns, it works in almost any conditions, don't expect to have hundred of watts from it, all you need is to see is lets's say start from 2 batteries in series and the total starting voltage is 20volts and after few minutes you have 24volts.
This is to prove that the schematic works and can selfcharge the running batteries.
If you are looking for lots of power then this is not the schematic you are looking for and you might need to search somewhere else.
I am working to extend and get more power but at the moment I am burning components just by moving my position on the chair... this works in cycles, I see it like a rotational field that when at maximum speed will not see the load...
this is how you need to connect it if you have internal diode. You can also add a capacitor between the coil and ground cable.
Thank your Romero, for providing a circuit diagram for the self-charger, applicable for a flyback transformer with internal diode.
I started to modify my setup to implement this.
I can not make any definite statements about charging, yet, because I can only run it for about half a minute, because the transistor gets quite hot.
I will have to find a remedy for that.
However, I get a very strong white "spark" across the spark gap. Actually it is more like a white arc. There is also a strong smell of ozone, just as Romero describes.
When I disconnect C1, only a feeble blue streamer remains across the spark gap.
When connecting an analog Volt-meter across the batteries, I can see that the Voltage rises from 24 V (setup not running) to approx. 30 V while the setup is running. This is surely unusual. This measurement only works with an analog meter. My cheap digital meter goes crazy when I connect it to the battery terminals while the circuit is in operation.
Member Collapsingfield inspired me:
instead of an industrially manufactured HV-cap for C1 I am using 2 to 3 meters of antenna cable (coaxial cable). I connect the cable's core as one electrode and the shield/braid as the other. The back-end of the cable (core and shield) are left non-connected. I am very pleased with this.